Even more impressive is that, after we race across town to the bar, he soon starts joining in with an emotional but melodic vocal himself. It's highly impressive that, on a Tuesday afternoon, with about five minutes' notice, Juan Carlos, the co-manager at old-town Jerez guesthouse La Fonda Barranco, has managed to find us an improvised flamenco performance. +34 954 502 324, JerezД®njoy sherry and art at Bodegas TradiciГіn What to see Seville's AlcГЎzar palace, all leafy patios, tumbling fountains and graceful arches, looks typically Arabic but it was actually built by the unfortunately named Christian ruler Pedro the Cruel. Where to eat Bar Ambigu in the Macarena barrio (where the girl in the song was from) doesn't look much but for в‚¬7.50 the set lunch menu is paradise for the stingy gourmet. A few days of being lost here, as in Seville itself, are no hardship at all. However, the staff are used to helping confused visitors find their bearings and the rooms, while slightly worn, still have the grandeur of Seville's golden age. It's hard enough to find your way here through Santa Cruz, Seville's gleaming, well-preserved and gloriously confusing old Jewish district вЂ“ that the interior of the hotel replicates Santa Cruz in miniature, with its own labyrinth of romantic courtyards, fountains and corridors linking 18 medieval houses, may seem too much to take. Photograph: Harry MaciasДЄrriving at the Las Casas de la JuderГa hotel you'd be forgiven for giving up and flinging your smartphone and map at the wall. What to see With its smooth arches, slender pillars and exquisitely carved sky-lights El BaГ±uelo, Granada's ancient Arabic bath complex, still makes bathing look like the ultimate symbol of civilisation. With the second, brochetas de cerdo (fat medallions of pork). Where to eat With the first glass of wine (в‚¬2) at traditional tapas bar Chantarela, a large chunk of tuna arrives. On top of all this, the LadrГіn de Agua makes a claim for the place as a centre of literature, too, with a serene library off the central patio and rooms named after local poets, such as Federico GarcГa Lorca. In fact, Granada as a whole is a city that seems determined to have it all, country life and urban living: it is home to the 'world's most beautiful building', the Alhambra, but within 30 minutes' drive of both world-class skiing and the beach. With the Darro river in front, burbling its way through high banks lined with trees and tangled bushes, this is a part of town which has welcomed the country right inside. Surprising until, that is, you look out from the balcony and across the narrow street.

The timber ceilings and rough-cut stone floor at the Hotel LadrГіn de Agua give the rooms a rustic air, which might be surprising, given that it's in the heart of one of AndalucГa's best-loved cities.

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